Acquisition of a Scottish Officer’s Full Dress Uniform - 92nd Gordon Highlanders Circa 1936

Both the zenith and twilight of the full dress uniforms of the regiments of the British Army occurred at the turn of the twentieth century, shortly before the First World War. There may be differences of opinion as to which regiment/regiments had the most resplendent uniform, but few will disagree that those of the Lancer regiments, particularly including those of the British Army in India, and the Highland Regiments of the British Army, were certainly ranked in contention.

With the general mobilization for war occurring in August of 1914, the full dress uniforms for the majority of the regiments of the British Army were turned into depots and stores. These uniforms were never to be generally issued again. Full dress for officers was never officially abolished, with new Dress Regulations actually issued in 1934, full dress was never again taken up for general use. One of the finest, and most comprehensive references of the final full dress uniforms is "THEIR GLORY SHALL NOT BE BLOTTED OUT" The Last Full Dress Uniform of the British Army, LtCol Olaf MacLeod, Lutterworth Press, Cambridge, 1986, ISBN 0-7188-2673-6.

Being of Scottish ancestry, one of the near lifelong projects of my continuing interest in the history of the British Army has been the acquisition of the complete full dress uniform of an officer of the 92^nd Gordon Highlanders of that era. It was a challenge started as a college student/NROTC Midshipman around 1954, and only culminated after my retirement in 2002, a span of almost fifty years. It’s interesting how in your life it seems like some things are meant to be, and that was to be the case in this quest. During the period I had the good fortune to find various significant elements and accouterments, some major, others less so. I had acquired a reasonable reference library over time, but one research “tool” surpassed all others, and that was the Internet.

The Gordon Highlanders, a painting by
Archibald Elliot Haswell Miller 1887-1979

I’m certainly not going to bore the reader with the details of the effort, but gained a whole new respect for the young newly commissioned ensign/2^nd Lieutenant of the Gordons in purchasing his full dress uniform, let alone the balance of required kit. Even if they came from nobility or landed gentry, it was still a real “ouch” to the sporran, and probably took years to pay off. At least at that time there were well established “crown appointed” regimental tailors/outfitters which provided “one stop shopping” for the entire kit.

One exercise I undertook during the course of my efforts was to develop an analysis of Then and Now, delineating all the items required per British Army Dress Regulations 1900.

GORDON HIGHLANDER LIEUT COLONEL'S FULL DRESS UNIFORM, CIRCA 1936-37

(Per British Army Uniform Dress Regulations 1900 and 1912; HIGHLAND AND SCOTTISH REGIMENTS. HIGHLAND REGIMENTS, EXCEPT HIGHLAND LIGHT INFANTRY. Full Dress)

604. Head Dress - BONNET, FEATHERED, HIGHLAND, FULL DRESS, FIVE TAILS, GORDON HIGHLANDERS, LAST ISSUE,1994, W/OFFICER'S CAP BADGE (STERLING SILVER, HALLMARKED, EDINBURGH, CIRCA 1916

605. Doublet - DOUBLET, OFFICER'S, FULL/LEVEE DRESS, GORDON HIGHLANDERS, SCARLET W/YELLOW FACINGS, GOLD BULLION LACE AND GILT REGIMENTAL BUTTONS, GOLD BULLION COLLAR DOGS (TIGER) LT COL INSIGNIA ON GOLD CORDED EPAULETTES, CIRCA 1935 (MUSEUM QUALITY REPRODUCTION)

606. Facings - Yellow cloth per sealed regimental pattern

607. Lace - Gold, thistle pattern, 5/8 inch wide, black line introduced at top and bottom

608. Special Badges - See Appendix I

609. Buttons - Regimental pattern in gilt

610. Pantaloons - Gordon tartan of authorized pattern

611. Boots and Spurs - As described in paragraphs 4 and 25

612. Sash - SASH, OFFICER'S, SCOTTISH REGIMENTS, NO.1 DRESS, CRIMSON, SILK, CURRENT ISSUE

613. Belted Plaid, Shoulder (Fly) Plaid,

       Kilt, Trews, Hose, Garters,

       Skean Dhu, Gaiters, Shoes,

       and Buckles

       KILT, NO.3, GORDONS, OFFICER'S, TARTAN, WOOL, CIRCA 1955

       KILT, NO.3, GORDONS, OFFICER'S, TARTAN, WOOL, CIRCA 2004

       KILT, NO.3, GORDONS, O.R., TARTAN, WOOL, CURRENT ISSUE 1990

       TREWS, NO.3, GORDONS, OFFICERS, TARTAN, WOOL, CURRENT ISSUE 1994

       SHOULDER (FLY) PLAID, GORDON, OFFICER'S, TARTAN, WOOL, CURRENT ISSUE

       SKEAN DHUB, STERLING SILVER, CELTIC PATTERN, GENUINE CAIRNGORM

       STONE, CIRCA 1955

       HOSE TOPS, HIGHLAND, NO.1 DRESS, RED & BLACK, DICED, WOOL, KNIT, PAIR, CIRCA 1955

       HOSE TOPS, HIGHLAND, NO.1 DRESS, RED & WHITE, DICED, WOOL, KNIT, CURRENT ISSUE 1998,

       PAIR

       GARTER FLASHES, HIGHLAND, RED, WOOL RIBBON & ELASTIC, CIRCA 1955,
       PAIR

       GAITERS, HIGHLAND, NO.1 DRESS, WHITE, DRILL, BLACK BUTTONS & STRAPS (GORDON

       HIGHLANDERS), CIRCA 1955, PAIR

       GHILLIE BROGUES, MILITARY PATTERN (WING TIPS), BLACK, CURRENT ISSUE

614. Brooch -  PLAID BROOCH, GORDON HIGHLANDERS, FULL RELIEF, NO.1 DRESS, LAST ISSUE 1994

615. Sporrans - SPORRAN, FULL DRESS (REVIEW AND LEVEE ORDER), GORDON HIGHLANDERS, OFFICERS, WHITE HORSE HAIR & 5 GOLD BULLION WIRE KNOTS, W/CANTLE IN GILT & STERLING SILVER, CIRCA 1914 (MUSEUM QUALITY REPRODUCTION); W/CURRENT ISSUE WHITE BUFF LEATHER SPORRAN BELT

SPORRAN, SERVICE DRESS, BROWN LEATHER, W/BELT AND GORDON HIGHLANDERS SPORRAN BADGE, W.M., Q.C. CIRCA 1951/1955

616. Claymore - SWORD, HIGHLAND OFFICER'S, PATTERN 1831, WILIKINSON, W/METAL SCABBARD

617. Scabbard - SEE ABOVE

618. Waist Belt - BELT, DRESS, (SCOTTISH REGIMENTS), WHITE, BUFF LEATHER, W/LEATHER KEEPERS, BRASS HARDWARE AND GORDON HIGHLANDER BELT BUCKLE, NO.1 DRESS, LAST ISSUE 1994.

619. Shoulder Belt - SWORD BELT, OFFICERS, SCOTTISH, WHITE, BUFF LEATHER, COMPLETE W/ALL STRAPS, FITTINGS AND GORDON HIGHLANDER OFFICER'S BELT PLATE, NO.1 DRESS, LAST ISSUE 1994 (REFEBISHED)

620. Waist Plate,

Breast Plate,

Dirk,

Dirk Belt and Plate

SCOTTISH DIRK, EPNS MOUNTS, CAMERON HIGHLANDERS ST. ANDREW PATTERN, KNIFE & FORK, IMITATION STONES, W/SCABBARD, CIRCA 1955

BELT, OFFICER'S, FULL/LEVEE DRESS, LEATHER, GOLD LACE, W/SILVER AND GILT BUCKLE, GORDON HIGHLANDERS; W/HIGHLAND DIRK FROG, CIRCA 1935
(MUSEUM QUALITY REPRODUCTION)

621. Sabertache - See paragraph 21

Decorations and Campaign Medals:

MILITARY CROSS GEORGE V (REPRODUCTION)

INDIA GENERAL SEVICE MEDAL, W/BAR AFGHANISTAN N.W.F. 1919 (The Gordon Highlanders were there)

CORONATION MEDAL 1937

COST OF SELECTED OFFICER’S UNIFORM ITEMS, 1906

Meyer & Mortimer, Conduit Street, London

                                                                                    £.                     s.                      d.

                       

            Doublet                                                           6                      14                     0

            Gold Cord Shoulder Straps                             0                      16                     0

            Silver Embroidered Stars                                0                        8                     0

            Silver Embroidered Crowns                            0                        8                     0

            Gold Embroidered Collar Badges                   0                      16                     0

            Parade Trews                                                   2                      10                     0

            Kilt                                                                   4                      18                     6

            Belted Plaid                                                      2                      18                     6

            Sash                                                                  4                        4                     0

            Sporran Strap                                                    0                        5                     0

            Cross Belt and Sling (without breastplate)       1                      14                     0

            Gold Dirk Belt (without buckle)                       3                        0                     0

            Half Hose                                                          0                        5                     6

            White Buckskin Gloves                                    0                        9                     0

            Total                                                                 22                    145                   18

The reader should realize that not included in the above are the following additional significant items (1906 costs are unknown):

             Sword, Highland Officers, Pattern 1831, w/Metal Scabbard
             Skean Dhuh, w/scabbard
             Scottish Dirk, Regimental Pattern, w/scabbard
             Sporran, Full Dress, Officers, Regimental Pattern
             Bonnet, Feathered, Highland, Full Dress
             Ghillie Brougues, Military Pattern
             Gaiters, Highland, No.1 Dress, White Drill
             Gaiter Flashes, Highland, Red Wool
             Kilt Pin

40 shillings (2 Pounds) in 1906 was worth approximately 143 pounds in 2005. At today's
 exchange rate, the 143 pounds is worth about $201.56. 

                                                                                                

COST IN CURRENT POUNDS STERLING AND US DOLLARS (2009) - £.1980.55
 ~ $2787.92

ACQUISITION COST OF SAME ITEMS (OR EQUIVALENT) FOR THE COLLECTION

                                                                                                     $ USD
            Doublet                                                                             450.00

            Gold Cord Shoulder Straps                                                (Incl.)

            Silver Embroidered Stars                                                   (Incl.)

            Silver Embroidered Crowns                                               (Incl.)

            Gold Embroidered Collar Badges                                       (Incl.)

            Parade Trews                                                                       70.00

            Kilt                                                                                     396.00          

            Belted Plaid                                                                          75.00

            Sash                                                                                      60.00

            Sporran Strap                                                                        15.00        

            Cross Belt and Sling (with breastplate)                              661.00

            Gold Dirk Belt (with buckle)                                              225.00         

            Half Hose                                                                                5.00

            White Cotton Uniform Gloves                                                8.00

                                                                                     Sub Total $1965.00

ADDITIONAL REQUIRED DRESS UNIFORM ITEMS  NOT INCLUDED ABOVE:

            Sword, Highland Officers, Pattern 1831                   2,500.00

            w/Metal Scabbard

            Skean Dhub w/scabbard (Sterling)                               627.00

            Scottish Dirk, Regimental Pattern, w/scabbard            375.00

            Sporran, Full Dress, Officers, Regimental                    475.00

            Pattern

            Bonnet, Feathered,  Highland, Full Dress,                    425.00

            Regimental Pattern, W/Regimental Cap Badge            275.00

            Brooch, Plait, Regimental Pattern                                 194.00 

            Ghillie Brougues, Military Pattern                                  80.00

            Gaiters, Highland, No.1 Dress, White Drill                    75.00

            Gaiter Flashes, Highland, Red Wool                               25.00

            Kilt Pin                                                                              5.00

                                                                               Sub Total $5056.00

            GRAND TOTAL $7021.00

Occasionally am certain that those who might be seriously interested in pursuing a similar quest have seen a reasonably complete highland officer’s uniform at auction at Bosley’s, Christie’s, or the other specialized auction houses. For the vast majority the single time outlay/investment of even bidding, let alone winning, is prohibitive. The following is a series of photographs of one such rare example that came up at an estate auction, at of all unlikely places Jacksons, in Cedar Falls, Iowa, in 2010. The estimated bid range was $800-1200 USD. At that price the uniform would have been an absolute steal!

A BRITISH (SCOTTISH) UNIFORM OF A LIEUTENANT OF THE GORDON HIGHLANDERS, first quarter of the 20th century. This very complete group include an black feather bonnet with diced band, silvered badge and white feather plume. Doublet of red wool with buff collar and cuffs, piped white, with gold bullion braid and regimental collar insignia, and with gold cord shoulder boards with rank insignia. Wool kilt is in regimental tartan, Also includes wool plaid of slightly different tartan than the kilt, with a silver regimental badge. Accoutrements consist of a white horsehair sporran with brass clasp and silver badge, and gold tassels. Gold brocade sword belt with regimental plate and a white buff leather baldric also with regimental plate.

Although the final complete uniform is comprised as a composite "mix and match", or as the Scots call it a "Gallimaufry"(a hash of odds and ends) from over the decades, and of necessity some museum quality reproductions, the overall effect is reasonably impressive. A note to eagle-eyed experts, the photograph was taken prior to the upgrade to the correct officer's bonnet hackle. Some may have even seen images of "Lieutenant-Colonel Angus Smyth-Gordon MC" on the Internet.

A current set of closer images better showing some of the detail, and the correct plume in the bonnet.

 
And a final commemorative glance at the Drums and Pipes (more accurately one regimental side drum and one set of bagpipes) of the 92nd Gordon Highlanders.

 

Operation "Market Garden" and the Battle of Arnhem - A Commemoration, Lest We Forget

On this day exactly seventy years ago, the largest airborne assault in history, to that time, occurred. Operation "Market Garden" commenced, and the ensuing Battle of Arnhem, began on 17 September 1944. As is self-evident the principal focus of this blog is on that battle.

The most significant portion of that courageous and magnificent failure was the action of the British 1^st Airborne Division in the cities of Arnhem and Oosterbeek, The Netherlands. It is deemed fitting and proper that on this occasion their heroic and enduring feat of arms should be recalled and commemorated.

The British Army, based upon verified multiple eye-witness accounts and resultant recommendations, saw fit to acknowledge five specific individuals (four posthumously) for that nation's highest award for bravery, The Victoria Cross. The criteria for earning the Victoria Cross are virtually identical to those of the United States Medal of Honor. For those interested, more details can be found in this blog at; http://arnhemjim.blogspot.com/2013/09/heroes-of-arnhem-in-miniature.html

"At the going down of the sun, and in the morning. We will remember them."

70th Anniversary of the Battle of Arnhem – The Original Operation Order

For those who are familiar with the Battle of Arnhem, 17-25 September 1944, also known as Operation Market-Garden, the realization occurs that in a few weeks the 70^th Anniversary of the battle will be commemorated.

On 22 February 1972 the IRA detonated a bomb outside the Officer’s Mess of 16 Parachute Brigade at Aldershot, Hants., then headquarters and depot of the Parachute Regiment and Airborne Forces. There was extensive damage and civilian staff casualties (6 killed), as well as an Army Chaplain, Father Gerry Watson MBE, ironically a Roman Catholic Priest. What was not widely known at the time of the explosion was that in one of the upper stories of the building were stored the entire historical records and archives of The Parachute Regiment. Fortunately there was only minimal damage to all of this original source documentation.

Realizing the continuing threat, action was immediately initiated to produce a duplicate set of records, which would be kept separately from the originals. As part of that herculean effort, MAJ Robert J. Bragg, (Rtd.), 13 Para Bn (TA), volunteered to assist with the portion of the records pertaining to Operation Market-Garden, in return for being able to retain for himself, additional copies of significant documentation.

One of those documents was Copy 37 (War Diary copy) of the original first issue of the operation order for OPERATION “MARKET”, the airborne element, issued by Lieut-General F. A. M. Browning on 13 September 1944.  For even this part of the operation, as large and complex as it was, you would think that even the initial operation order would be more extensive. As you will see it amounted to a mere 11 pages.

I thought it would be an appropriate contribution to the anniversary, to share with readers of this blog a facsimile of that original operation order.  It suffices to say, that it was followed in short order by numerous annexes and revisions.

The following photograph, with full acknowledgement and credit to the Sunday Telegraph Magazine and photographer Thom Atkinson, is a comprehensive lay-out of the kit of a British Paratrooper at Arnhem, which may be of interest to readers. The only significant items noted missing are a Grenade, No. 82 (Gammon Bomb) and Grenade, No. 77. For a more complete inventory of British Airborne infantry weapons at Arnhem, please see; http://arnhemjim.blogspot.com/2012/11/some-infantry-weapons-of-1st-airborne.html.

1944 Lance-Corporal, Parachute Regiment, Battle of Arnhem

1 Parachute harness with parachute (Static/X-chute)

2 Jump smock (Denison) camouflage first issued in 1942 (the pattern was only replaced in 1980) and over smock worn when jumping

3 Toggle rope – general purpose rope

4 37 pattern battledress jacket; the patches on sleeve are for the 1st or 6th airborne division; wrist watch on the right sleeve; dog tags on the left sleeve

6 Braces

7 Gators

8 Socks

9 Standard British army issued ammunition boots

10 Gloves

11 Leather wallet

12 Camouflage scarf

13 Battledress trousers, colourless shirt, undervest and underpants

14 Aluminium mess tin, mug, water bottle and ration kit including tin of corn beef, boiled sweets and a large block of chocolate

15 Drop bag with rope attached

16 Shovel – kept in the drop bag

17 Cutlery, basic washing and shaving kit, and spare boot laces on a wash towel

18 Entrenching tool – for digging shell scrapings ("foxhole")

19 Handle for the entrenching tool

20 Ammunition pouches

21 Belt and cross straps

22 Machine carbine, Sten Mark V  (9mm submachine gun) was first issued in 1944 and given first to airborne troops. It was first used for D-Day, and then again for Arnhem. Underneath is the cleaning kit and pocket loading tool for magazine

23 Bayonet, No. 4 Mk I

24 Bayonet scabbard

25 Sten magazine

26 Airlanding Bandolier with seven Sten magazines

27 Cigarettes, matches and playing cards

28 Gas mask bag

29 Two grenades – the No 36 Mills grenade was used in the First World War and the No 69 Bakelite, which was in service from 1942, and caused less collateral damage

30 Fairbairn-Sykes fighting knife – used as a general tool – and it’s scabbard 

31 Large roll gas cape

32 Gas mask – the light pack gas mask was issued from 1943-1960

33 Anti gas ointment

34 Anti gas hood

35 Eye shield for gas attack

36 Groundsheet (underneath) with a sewing kit ("Housewife") and thimble on top

37 Maroon (Red) airborne forces beret with a parachute regiment cap badge

38 Torch

39 First aid dressing

40 Helmet – Mark II parachuting helmet issued in 1942 with a leather chin strap

For those who might be interested the following is The Band of the Parachute Regiment playing the theme from the movie A Bridge Too Far: